After hiking the entire 12 miles of the trail from Scott's Gap Rd to the Welcome Center and then back, I was enjoying the last few minutes on the trail in some pretty glorious cool weather considering it was still August.
Approaching the cut from the shade of the forest, I saw across the clearing a yearling white tail deer, still showing spots in its light brown coat. The deer emerged from the trail opening in the opposite side of the forest, oblivious to my presence in the shade, and moved quickly heading toward the large hill that defined the North horizon in this section of the cut.
The key to experiencing deer in the forest all comes down to who sees who first. If the deer sees you first, you'll most likely get a view of it's white tail flashing as its haunches bounce away and over the next rise.
If you see the deer first, freeze.
After stopping, you should then move very slowly and deliberately as any sudden movement will spook the deer and off it will run. From my vantage point in the shade, I watched frozen in my tracks as the yearling almost pranced through the clearing, pausing to nibble at random greenery like a child looking through the kitchen cabinets for a secret stash of cookies. As it made its way through the clearing and started to head uphill, I lost sight of the deer in the high weeds.
I moved slowly into the clearing and turned to look for my yearling friend as it re-emerged from the weeds and continued grazing on the hillside. I quietly took out my camera and slowly raised my arm to begin taking pictures when the deer noticed my presence. Looking back at me with his ears now pricked up at attention, I thought it would only be moments before I saw it bounce twice and disappear in the treeline.
Yearling takes notice
To my surprise, it reversed course from where it stood and started to take cautious steps toward me rather than away from me. As it continued to walk downhill, the deer again disappeared in the high weeds and I walked a few steps forward to get a better view.
The yearling re-emerged from the weeds again almost at a full bouncing trot, spotted me immediately in the clearing and froze. It was only about 20 yards away and now, the stare down began. I again raised my camera slowly and started snapping pictures. The yearling, clearly curious, started to look back and forth moving its head and swishing its tail nervously. I could almost hear its thoughts as it looked at this sweaty animal wearing a green shirt and hat.
“What the heck is that thing?”
With only my digital camera extended, I continued snapping pictures, the noise of the shutter very audible in the almost still air.
And the yearling took another step towards me.
And then another.
Not knowing what to do at this point, I lowered my camera and just watched.
The yearling took two more steps in my direction, all the while staring at me, ears alert, evaluating all the data, and curiously unafraid. Almost within 10 yards of me now, it side-stepped into taller grass and began a slow circular skirting path in my direction. Coming forward and maintaining its minimal distance, I slowly raised my camera again to snap pictures, expecting each shutter noise to be the last moment I would see the animal as it darted into the trees.
Still curious
But still it lingered, oblivious to me snapping pictures. At this point, having shared the last few minutes with my new pal, I had that silly human moment where I thought that any wild animal not afraid of me is tame, so I spoke to it.
“Hey there fella” I said in a soothing and soft high voice. The yearling came to attention, and looked at me strangely, with its ears pointed at the sound of my voice. “How you doin'?” I clearly recall saying out loud.
It didn't bolt.
It calmly licked its muzzle and I noticed the shine on its wet nose. Details sprang forth and I saw how thick its coat was, the pattern of spots on its side and the long whisker hairs around its mouth. It swished its tail again nervously and lowered its head to nibble grass. It raised its head again and looked directly at me, still wondering what I was.
Still frozen, I raised my camera again and took pictures.
Behind me, I heard a breeze begin to rustle through the grass and felt it hit my sweat, cooling me in the warming sunshine. The yearling suddenly dashed into the woods.
In the blink of an eye, it had gone and I heard the crunch of leaves only twice as it bounded away in the shade and disappeared.
"Gotta go!"
On the breeze, I smelled the smoke of an outdoor fire.
I don't think I scared off my friend in the woods, but I certainly enjoyed my 10 minutes in the sunshine with my new pal. So much so that the 6 hour/12 mile hike I had just completed seemed like an afterthought.
With a newfound bounce in my step, I drank some water from my Camelbak drinking tube and proceeded on toward my car in the Scott's Gap parking area.
Just another great day in the forest.
Short stories from trails around Kentuckiana
Do You Smell Cucumbers?
On a recent hike, I joined the Louisville Hiking and Backpacking Meetup Group in Jefferson Memorial Forest. (A great group if you're looking to get into the local outdoors!) During the hike, I heard an interesting rumor about smells on the trail. That's right, smells.
Apparently, it is a popularly held belief that if you smell cucumbers while hiking, it means that there is a copperhead snake nearby. After a little research online, I could only confirm that the story is out there. I couldn't find out if it was factual though. Once I started paying attention, I noticed that distinct odor a couple of times along the Purple Heart Trail in the Tom Wallace Recreation Area. I never spotted a snake, but I will start looking when I notice the odor and I hope I can snap some pictures of the olfactory offender.
Has anyone else heard that copperheads give off the cucumber smell?
Strike a pose
I really enjoy hiking, but in reality, hiking is just the means by which I pursue my real passion, outdoor photography. Don't get me wrong, hiking is great exercise and I've come to realize that there is something almost spiritual about the serenity of a long trail in the wilds. But taking pictures of what I find out there and then finding out exactly what it is with a little research seems to speak to my secret Swedish heritage, my inner Linnaeus.
I've never splurged on any fancy equipment, and I still use the first digital camera I ever purchased (a mid range job by Panasonic). Some days, you might think you've captured some great images only to get home and find that you never really focused quite right, or the lighting was off. Any number of things can ruin pictures, but with most outdoor subjects, it comes down to their willingness to sit still long enough for you to snap a decent picture. (Birds can be especially maddening in this regard!)
On a recent hike along the Hike Bike Pike in Bernheim Forest, I was struck by the sudden willingness of several subjects to just strike a pose while I snapped multiple pictures. If I had to give one tip for taking digital photos, it would be this: when the subject sits still and you want a good image, take as many pictures as you can. Every extra shot you take increases the probability that you have at least one good image in the bunch.
On a sunny Sunday afternoon, a Tiger Swallowtail basked in the sun for 10 minutes while I snapped away and a Fence Lizard actually flexed for me.
Eastern Fence Lizard Closeup
Tiger Swallowtail
More firsts
It's been an interesting Summer in the Bluegrass for sure. We've had plenty of rain and everything is lush and green in the great outdoors in our area. Finding a new trails in Jefferson Forest (Fairmount Falls) and Bernheim Forest (Hike Bike Pike) is certainly a first for me, and I hope you get to check them both out as soon as you can.
Mushrooms continue to be a big highlight this summer and on almost any hike I've taken, I've spotted golden chanterelle mushrooms in abundance. On more than one occasion, I've spotted patches of these culinary delectables that contained at least 50 mushrooms, each about the size of my fist. Morels might be the most sought after in Spring, but Summer has been chanterelle time. At Fairmount Falls, I also spotted a huge specimen of an almost alien looking white coral tooth fungus.
My first hike on the AT to Charlie's Bunion also delivered my first sighting of Turks Cap Lilies on the trail. My first trip to Buzzard Roost in Hoosier National Forest also afforded me my first ever viewing of a Blackberry Lily, and my first case of chigger bites.
Blackberry lilies
Psyched about Fall
Last year, we experienced one of the best Fall color seasons this decade. With the quantity of rain that we've had this year, only a withering drought in the coming months will prevent us from having another banner year for the crimson and yellow leaves of Fall. I'm really looking forward to crisp days and a rich Autumn palette of color.
Necessities: August
Each month in my Trail Shorts posts, I'll look at some gear you might want to consider taking on the trail. This month, the topic is trekking poles.
For a luxury item, I must admit I've become very reliant on my Leki Titanium trekking poles. I always walk with one pole on hikes under 8 miles. On any trail over that distance, or especially hilly or wet trails, a pair of trekking poles are really helpful for distributing some of the weight you carry to your arms and shoulders as opposed to your hips and knees. If you are a backpacker, trekking poles are almost mandatory.
While you may not want to spend lots of money on hi-tech trekking poles (200 bucks for a pair isn't unheard of), there are alternatives. Many hikers prefer walking sticks that they fashion themselves out of wood found along the trail. You can also buy inexpensive single poles for under 20 dollars at almost any sporting goods outlet with a decent camping section.
Try a walking stick or a trekking pole and you too will soon make them a habit during your hiking adventures.
I don't leave home without them
The brief rain yesterday has had no effect.
Damn it’s hot.
And dry.
Dry and hot, and the trees know it. Most of the poplars and birches are already dropping their leaves because of the drought. Almost a mile and a half into the Red Trail, I realize I won’t be taking many pictures today, it is getting to be a little barren. Almost no flowers are blooming and those that are blooming are all yellow and drooping. Daisies and black-eyed-susans and goldenrod all suffering from the lack of rain. A few butterflies have tempted me to take pictures, but they’re having none of it, staying high in the trees. Spicebush and Tiger Swallowtails darting to and fro.
As I descend into Mosquito Valley (my pet name) at the halfway point of the trail, the air is getting even more humid. The creek in the valley has long run dry, but the rain yesterday has made it almost misty in this hollow. 95 degrees and almost 95% humidity with a clear hazy sky. August in the Ohio Valley is a delight if you like to sweat.
As the trail flattens, the bugs begin their ear whine and the vegetation draws in close to the trail. But what is normally lush is limply hanging in the air, looking like it might fall to the ground if brushed. The orchard spiders have been busy and I have to wave my trekking poles in front of me to avoid the constant barrage of spider silk. After a few more yards, I spot them.
Ahead, almost exactly at the midpoint of the trail, two strangers are sitting and resting on logs that cross the trail.
As I approach, my mind stops and evaluates. Details start to pop out with each step. They’re both white, no shirts, skinhead haircuts a few tats that look vaguely tribal. Camo pants and crappy tennis shoes complete their outfits. Not hikers, just kicking it in the woods. They’re solid too, not much fat on either, making me think about the extra pounds I’m carrying and suddenly feeling a little old. I still think like I’m 23, but the creaky knees tell a different story. As I get within a few yards, I’m catching a strange vibe. They’re not talking and I smell weed, the almost clove-like tang of the smoke.
What is going on here?
I’m suddenly hyper aware that I’m dressed for a mugging. Trekking poles, Camelbak backpack with water tube protruding. My digital camera is hanging from my shoulder strap where I can reach it quickly. A hiking geek with $500 bucks of equipment in plain sight. All alone. But then again, I probably have about 75 lbs on either of them, and I estimate I’m maybe 4 inches taller. Not exactly a pushover with a bullseye on my back.
I try not to sound nervous as I straddle the logs and move by them “Hey fellas, how’s it goin’ ?”. No answer but I keep moving, putting yards between us. There are dead leaves on the trail as I crunch forward, but no sounds are coming from behind.
Feeling a little surreal in the heat, I don’t see much of anything in Mosquito Valley, just the crunch of the leaves and the ever present ear whine of the bugs. As the trail ends and starts up out of the valley, I plod forward with a purpose. I might have a few extra pounds, but this hill is easy and I have my wind. If a smoker were following in this heat, I could leave him in my dust. In a few minutes, I’m 200 feet above the valley floor and have a clear view of the logs where the two skinhead dudes were copping a buzz.
No one to be seen. Vanished like Andy Dufresne, a fart in the wind.
I suspect they are walking counter to my clockwise, since I hear nothing behind me the rest of the way up the valley face. As I emerge onto the fire road that comprises the rest of the trail out, I catch a small shiver. “That was strange”, I think to myself and trudge onward in the heat. The poplar and birch tree leaves on the ground crackle as I walk through, speaking volumes about our Summer drought.
Just another hike on the Red Trail in August, with just a small twist
Mosquito Valley, Red Trail, Horine Reservation
.
The Mogan Ridge East trail in Hoosier National Forest is an interesting mixed habitat trail closely nestled to the Ohio River. To find the trail head, take I-64 West to the Sulphur Springs exit and then head South for about 18 miles on Indiana State Highway 66. Just prior to the turnoff to reach the trailhead parking lot, you'll pass a sign for the Mano Point Boat Ramp and then immediately afterwards, you'll cross a short bridge. Just after the bridge is a gravel road on your right which will lead your to the Mogan Ridge East trail head.
Mogan Ridge Trailhead
Hiking in from the trailhead, you'll find the first half mile or so to be dark, damp and rocky. During wet weather, this section can have mud and slick rocks, so watch your footing. You'll pass what looks like a mudslide or bulldozed area on your right at the .3 mile mark. Although it may not look like a trail, this is in fact the return section of the loop. Continuing on, you'll exit the forst into an open area filled with scrub and grasses and many types of wildflowers. This is an ideal habitat for birds and especially deer in the early morning hours.
Rose Gentian
In this area, you'll reach a fork in the trail. To the right, you'll find the shortcut to the loop. It descends to a lowland area adjacent to a creek. To the left, you start the longest section of the trail up to a high ridge. Taking the left, you'll begin a climb that continues for at least a half mile or so. On this section, there are still many leftover downed trees from this year's ice storm and the trail has gone somewhat feral. Lots of high weeds will greet you in between huge downed trees which you will have to navigate.
Ice Storm Obstacles Still Exist
This section of the trail in summer has lots of sunflowers and once I reach the ridge top, provided a great overlook into a valley where I spotted turkeys as well as a few white tails. When you start to walk downhill on this section, you'll be getting close to the next section of the trail which is comprised mainly of an old hunting or fire road. Turning right from the southern section onto this road, you'll notice that it's completely clear of debris and you'll enjoy easy hiking on this section for the next mile or so before you reach the shortcut loop again.
Continuing on the loop, you'll enter an area with a few decent ups and downs on the trail. This area links you back up to the spur that connects the loop to the trail head. You'll find a lot of mushrooms in this area as well and you'll have two creek crossings. During my hike last weekend (July 18th), I also spotted some tiger lillies but the blooms were way past their prime.
Chicken Mushroom
The Mogan Ridge East trail is one I'll return to, especially since it is a hiking only trail (though there was some evidence of horse traffic). The different habitats as well as the diversity of plants and animals make this trail a nature lover's dream. If you don't mind a little climbing, hike the entire loop for the full effect. I think you'll find the trail worth the trip.
Zebra Swallowtail
Check out the other pictures from my hike in the album Mogan Ridge East
